![]() ![]() If you are after perfection then you might wish to add a layer of thin steel (1-2mm) to the Hardiebacker as a final and paintable surface. I have heard that compressed Vermiculite board (about an inch thick) is far better but it is very expensive and thick (reduces width of recess maybe too much). Cracks will usually be minor and can be repaired with Decorator’s Caulking. ![]() This is more likely on the rear wall (where stoves are often 3″ or 4″ away from the wall). Note that you can get spider cracks in Hardiebacker (if if your stove is closer than 6″). Hardiebacker say it is fine for up to 100 degrees centigrade (it will not set on fire but can crack). HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard is CE approved and BBA certified since May 2004. HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard is fire rated class A1, meaning the product is non-combustible. HardieBacker® 12mm cement backerboard (previously named HardieBacker®500) has been evaluated in accordance with the protocols and acceptance criteria of EN 12467 and was found to be compliant. Here is Hardiebacker’s official fireplace-lining leaflet. ![]() I have lined, at the time of writing, over 100 fireplaces with Hardiebacker over a five year period and have never had a customer complaint (aside from a few small spider cracks sorted with Decorator’s Caulking). The cement board is smooth (one side smooth, one side slightly textured) and can be painted with bog-standard emulsion. When lining the complete inside of a recess the board I always used is 12mm Hardiebacker cement board about £12 a sheet 1.2m x 0.8m (NOT the new lightweight plasterboard stuff but the heavy concrete board). What lining board should I use for my fireplace? There is an even lazier method and you might even avoid any plastering! Hardiebacker paints fine same as plastered surfaces. We’ll see if it cracks! Update: it did! Paint directly onto these un-plastered Hardiebacker-returns same as the rest of the chimney breast. I actually recommend NOT plastering the return as plaster can crack under high heat (I forgot to tell the plasterer this). It might also be called the "it is too dark to see how crappy the surface is" method.Įssentially one just plasterboards the front of the chimney breast and adds a little "return" into the recess (using 12mm Hardiebacker for just the return as this is where the real heat is). Admittedly it is a small recess so not much gap to peer into and it is very dark in there. The inside of the recesses I sprayed in black stove paint and, by the time the stove was in, the recess cannot even be seen due it being dark. This is actually in my house (in “the snug” and in the lounge). It looks surprisingly effective and fits the architectural “honesty’ box. The pics, a few paragraphs into this article, show the lazy-bod method. The fastest method of lining a fireplace recess I also like the “lazy” method below but this may be too basic for some. I say “was” my favoured method because now I no longer install and thinking about all that effort makes me break out in a sweat. It takes a little more effort but provides a professional finish for the more discerning client -). It is a method worked out and improved over the years. 90% of all my in-recess installs followed this method: the end result is very tidy. Whilst installing for a living, the "smooth-lining with board" was my favoured method (over rendering) and approx. It might be worth reading all of this article before deciding.ĭo NOT use plasterboard of any kind inside the fireplace recess, even the pink fire-resistant stuff, as this is not allowed as plasterboard is not officially non-combustible (plasterboard okay on chimney breast though). There are also a couple of "lazy methods" that are surprisingly effective. You might choose to render the brickwork or go the whole hog (where did that phrase come from must check…) and make smooth with board for that perfect look. keep the stone or brickwork), filling any deep holes with mortar and maybe adding a lick of paint (brickwork can look very good painted with a few coats of emulsion). Before we get stuck in, there are various ways of making the inside of your builder’s opening look like something other than a dark, soot-stained hole in the wall. ![]()
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